diamond geezer

 Friday, February 05, 2016

Out There is Historic England’s first major exhibition, a retrospective look at key postwar public art. It focuses on murals and sculptures dotted around estates and shopping centres, commissioned for the greater good, and particularly those under threat or lost. It opened this week at Somerset House and runs until just after Easter. You'll like this one.



There are several exhibitions on at Somerset House at present, including the big ticket Big Bang Data in the galleries at the front of the building. This one's upstairs in the courtyard, Out There, within a series of rooms in one corner. It costs to get in, but if you like this kind of thing don't let that stop you coming - I spent well over an hour inside. The guide book's good too, and a bargain, with 36 illustrated pages for a paltry £1. Amusingly you buy your ticket at one till, but then you have to buy the guide book from the lady at the till immediately nextdoor, because systems.

The first room looks at sculpture in the context of the Festival of Britain. A large number of public works of art were commissioned, but most of them on the cheap as they were always presumed to be temporary. Even the much-loved Skylon was scrapped by the new government after the exhibition closed - here we see one of the souvenir aluminium letter openers it was melted down into. But there had been pioneering collections of outdoor works before - Battersea Park hosted several annual displays, here illustrated with programmes and posters showing mysterious metallic forms.

The next room focuses solely on Harlow - Sculpture Town. This dormitory settlement beyond the fledgling Green Belt was built up into a new town of more than 70000 people with large-scale challenging outdoor works of art scattered throughout. A couple of the sculptures are here at the exhibition - the advantage of such works being that sometimes several casts were made - including Trigon (from the shopping centre) by Lynn Chadwick, and a bronze carcass of a bull slung over two market porters' backs. I really enjoyed watching a thirteen minute documentary filmed in 1956 explaining Harlow to Americans, featuring average workmen and housewives praising their new town, and the chief architect himself surveying his creation from the top of a tower block as strands of wiggly hair flutter in the breeze. To see the real thing in situ, a day trip to Harlow isn't as ridiculous an idea as it might sound.



Smaller projects also get the nod, like the statues made as an integral part of the Highbury Quadrant estate, and Hertfordshire County Council's post-war spend on art to brighten its secondary schools. Urban centres far from London are also included, particularly as part of a 1972 public sculpture programmme sponsored by a brand of cigarettes. Cardiff got climb-on geometric forms, while Cambridge's twirly spikes were comprehensively vandalised over six months by members of an unappreciative public. Birmingham appears to have hit the jackpot with a giant King Kong statue by the Bull Ring, but even they failed to keep hold of what would now be a much-loved piece, and it ended up first in a car showroom and then in private hands.

Sometimes commercial partnerships deliver public art of stature. One example is Barbara Hepworth's Winged Figure on the front of John Lewis in Oxford Street, whose stringed maquette is on display, while Geoffrey Clarke's The Spirit of Electricity remains in situ on a 60s office block in St Martin's Lane. Coming rather more up to date, TfL's commitment to public art is celebrated, with (for example) the colourful 'Wrapper' covering the outside of Edgware Road station, the Paolozzi mosaics recently disassembled at Tottenham Court Road, and a Labyrinth which appears to have been borrowed from the concourse at Embankment.

Heritage England are hoping that this exhibition, and its accompanying campaign, will make us more appreciative of postwar public art and more willing to protect it. As an example of what public pressure can do they've alighted on Old Flo, Stepney's beloved Henry Moore, which was very nearly sold off by Tower Hamlets' previous Mayor to raise money to plug funding cuts. Communities and charities came together to say "No!", and the current Mayor has pledged to keep this Draped Seated Woman for public enjoyment, once somewhere appropriate can be found to put her. Old Flo is one of the lucky ones.



Half a wall in the Save Our Sculpture room is given over to public art that can no longer be seen. Some is lost, some sold, some destroyed when the surrounding inrastructure was redeveloped and some stolen for scrap. Barbara Hepworth's Two Forms (Divided Circle) is one of the latter, nicked overnight from Dulwich Park five years ago and never recovered. There it is in the photo above, which I snapped on my phone while nobody was looking. Photography is prohibited in the exhibition, for reasons of copyright, but I decided to break that particular rule because the copyright holder was me. Yay, I have a photo in an exhibition at Somerset House, even if the reasons behind its appearance are rather sad.

I know at least a dozen friends who'd enjoy this exhibition, ticking all sorts of art and architecture boxes as it does, along with its focus on an era often unappreciated by the mainstream. There are no statues of army generals or kings and queens in this collection, more a diverse collection of forms and a keen sense of a bright uplifting future. I came away with a sense of a lost era in which artists and authorities tried to do what was best for communities, and a legacy at odds with today's more commercial sensitivities. Rejoice that 41 such sculptures were listed last month, thanks to Historic England's cataloguing diligence. And look around you while you're Out There, because the very best place to enjoy public art is in public space.

Out There: Our Post-War Public Art
3 February – 10 April 2016
Open daily 10.00 – 18.00 (last admission 17.15)
Late night Thursdays & Fridays until 21.00
Admission £6.50, concessions £5.00


» Exhibition video trailer
» Public Art 1945-95 (a 24 page illustrated history, from Historic England)
» Why not join the Public Monuments and Sculpture Association?

» very nearby: Beyond Beauty - the annual exhibition at Two Temple Place

 Thursday, February 04, 2016

Five times a year TfL holds a board meeting at which lots of high level issues are discussed in public. Five days in advance, all the papers for that meeting are tabled online, where anyone can read them. And often they contain facts, strategies and explanations you just don't get to hear anywhere else. A few news outlets scour the board papers for nuggets that might be of wider interest, while others continue to wait for TfL's press department to send them 'news' and republish that. I prefer digging to parroting, so below are 20 (not necessarily interesting) things you could have learned at this week's TfL board meeting.

Tube
• Significant changes to the proposed development above the new Tube station at Battersea, led by the Battersea Power Station Development Company, mean that the station design needs to be revised to ensure it can support their proposed new, more ambitious structures. These revisions will lead to increases in the overall cost of the project which we are seeking to recover from the developer.
• The 150th of the eventual 191 walkthrough air-conditioned S stock trains has now entered service on the Circle, District, Metropolitan and Hammersmith & City lines. One extra train has been purchased to ensure that the fleet will be large enough when the Metropolitan line is extended from Croxley to Watford Junction.
• The Mayor set a target in 2011 aiming to further reduce delays on London Underground by 30% by the end of 2015. Delays have since reduced by an impressive 38% and are at their lowest ever level.
• The refurbishment of the roof at Farringdon station, originally dating from 1865, has won Best Entry 2015 in the National Railway Heritage Awards.

Crossrail
• Crossrail remains on time and within the funding envelope of £14.8bn. Overall, the project is more than 70% complete.
• At Moorgate station, the newly-constructed passenger tunnel linking the Northern line to Crossrail runs less than a metre below the Northern line’s northbound tunnel.
• In advance of Crossrail, a new customer information display is being tested at Manor Park. The integrated display system provides information about TfL Rail and network-wide travel and details of disruptions to other transport services.
• To create a large-scale artwork in the Tottenham Court Road Crossrail station, gold leaf will be hand-gilded on the ceiling above the eastern ticket hall.

Buses
• As part of the Zero Emission Urban Bus System (ZeEUS) project, wireless charging is being trialled on range-extended hybrid double-decker buses on route 69 between Canning Town and Walthamstow.
• The introduction of digital advertising panel technology at bus shelters, from 22 February, will see 650 new panels installed by the end of August. This will provide an interactive way for advertisers to showcase their products and a means to provide local information to customers.

Cycling
• The central section of the East-West Cycle Superhighway (Tower Hill to Lancaster Gate) will be completed by May, with works in Parliament Square targeted for completion before the London Marathon on 24 April. CS1 and the CS2 upgrade are scheduled to be complete by April.
• The Central London Grid is a set of connected routes for cyclists across central London. A total of 126 borough schemes contribute to the Grid, 33 of which (16km out of 100km) are now either under construction or complete. Designs for 104 of the 126 schemes have been received from the boroughs, of which 94 have been approved by TfL.

Walking
• On an average day 6.4 million walk-all-the-way trips are made, and walking accounts for 30% of all trips made by Londoners. Two-thirds of journeys of one mile or under are made on foot and walking is the most common mode for shopping trips and trips to and from school.

Contactless
• The proportion of Pay As You Go journeys being made using contactless payment cards continues to increase each week, reaching 27% for Tube and rail journeys and 23% for bus journeys. These numbers are increasing at between 0.2-0.4% each week. Nearly 25,000 new cards are being used every day. The share of mobile devices in overall contactless use stood at approximately 3.5% in December.
• Oyster Pay As You Go top-ups, which represent about 70% of all sales transactions, are down year-on-year by about 8%, reflecting customers switching from Oyster to contactless. Changes introduced as a result of contactless have reduced the cost of revenue collection from 15% of revenue to below 9%, with initiatives already in place projected to reduce this to around 6% of revenue.
• Sales of Travelcard season tickets on London Underground have decreased by 9.5% overall with a much bigger drop of 12.9% per cent for weekly Travelcards where weekly capping is now available as a substitute. Annual Travelcard sales have increased in line with traffic. Sales of daily Travelcards have dropped by more than 50% in London, in line with the projections when the January 2015 fares changes were made.
• The closure of LU ticket offices has been accompanied by an increase in the number of ticket machines at major stations. When combined with a reduction in the number of sales transactions, this means that customers are seeing shorter queueing times and a better ticket buying experience.

Oyster failure
• On Saturday 2 January the Oyster system failed when the new 2016 fares were due to go into effect at 04:30. The cause was quickly diagnosed and a fix was tested and applied system-wide by 09:30. One of several data tables which deal with special fare types was configured incorrectly and this resulted in the readers detecting an incomplete set of tables. As soon as this fault was discovered a recovery plan was activated and the system returned to operation. The full revenue loss of around £250,000 will be recovered from TfL's contractors. This was the first Oyster failure since 2008. During the downtime period, contactless payment cards and paper tickets worked as normal.

Museum
• Visitor admission numbers at the London Transport Museum remained high throughout 2015, regularly exceeding target. It remains on track to reach record-breaking numbers of around 400,000 by the end of March. December trading for the webshop was up by £42,000 (67%) on last year.

New Year's Eve
• For the second year running there were fewer people in central London on New Year's Eve, with significant reductions in the numbers of non-ticket holders attempting to view the event. Although the reasons for this are not fully understood, a combination of factors including public information and the weather are likely to have had an impact.

 Wednesday, February 03, 2016

Before the month's too far gone, here are three things I did in January but never got round to writing about at the time...



You might have missed: Going up the Orbit
The Shard isn't the only lofty London landmark with a special annual deal. The Orbit in the Olympic Park has a similar offer, except it's cheaper, and properly unlimited, and the view isn't anywhere near as good. Book online and you can go up to the observation platform as many times as you like for £12 (or £2 less if you're a resident of an Olympic borough). But I fear the number of people seeking to view their neighbourhood from 80 metres up is rather low. It's not an attraction where you ever see queues, indeed I've always had the full attention of the staff when I've been. Admittedly the last time I went up was during a full-on storm, just to see what the experience was like, but the upstairs crew let out an audible sigh of relief when I appeared because they'd seen nobody for ages. Standing outside on the platform in driving rain was, let's say, an experience, even if my house was rather hard to spot through the gloom. With the attraction losing half a million pounds a year (I know, who would have guessed?), bosses hope that the adding the world's longest slide will finally draw visitors in. The lower of the two platforms was closed to visitors a few weeks ago so that construction of the slide can begin - it'll be heading down from the square hole in the middle, if any of you have actually been. When the slide opens to the public, sometime in the spring, you'll be able to whizz down five spirals and a long straight at up to 15mph (in 40 seconds flat) for the paltry fee of £5. Unfortunately that's on top of the entrance fee of £12, so not the bargain it might appear. And adding this exciting extra is costing the public purse £3.5m, which might be argued to be throwing good money after bad. But if marketed correctly (yes, seriously, the world's longest slide) this might just possibly validate the decision to build this red swirling oddity in the first place.



You might have missed: Green Chain 11
When BestMate wondered what to do at the weekend, I suggested section 11 of the Green Chain. We've walked several bits of this southeast London network before, but this is one of the better stretches, plus it (almost) passes the house where he grew up. We started at Crystal Palace, where BestMate declared the coffee in the station cafe to be the best he'd ever tasted (and that's no mean praise). We diverted off the designated path to the palace footprint beneath the TV mast, to enjoy the view, then crossed into the lesser known (but beautifully maintained) Sydenham Wells Park where unbelievably the rhododendrons were already out. Up on Sydenham Hill we disagreed over which of the grand houses we'd like to live in, a battle I later won when it turned out 'Six Pillars' was a Grade II*-listed Modernist classic by Berthold Lubetkin. Descending into Sydenham Hill Wood we were relieved we'd worn our boots - the former railway alignment was a quagmire - and we were almost embarrassed to walk into the Horniman Museum, past umpteen parents and pushchairs, caked in mud. And a fantastic panorama from the bandstand, especially for those who like 60s social housing and 21st century City skyscrapers. The next street turned out to be part of BestMate's walk to primary school, and we later found the family home up the end of a grand avenue subdivided into flats, and paused to worry the current residents by taking photos of their frontage. Camberwell Cemetery appeared to have a serious drainage problem, with several of the graves effectively underwater, which couldn't having a positive effect on any human remains below. There are a lot of cemeteries in this second half of the walk, the meandering path always really well signposted, and ending up in the Victorian splendour of what's now Nunhead's nature reserve. Five and a half miles of fascinating inner suburbia just goes to prove you don't have to spend your free time doing the obvious.



You might have missed: Streets Ahead
The latest exhibition at the Building Centre in Store Street is about streets. How they grew, how they are now, and how they might grow in the future. A series of information boards lead you through various aspects of London's streetscape, from sepia photos of early motor vehicles mixing with horse-drawn traffic, to artists' impressions of potential priority bus corridors. With London growing at a rate of nine new residents every hour, something has to be done to accommodate that growth whilst simultaneously ensuring excessive air pollution doesn't choke our lives. There are statistics aplenty (by 2041 there'll be 32 million trips on London's roads each day, up from 26 million today) and details of fresh new schemes that might help improve flow. This being a TfL-supported exhibition it's all terribly positive, hence proposals for the Silvertown Tunnel are presented as a boon, and a quite frankly scary proposal to burrow new road tunnels around central London is praised for "reducing severance" and "improving local environments"... unless you have the misfortune to live where it might burrow to the surface. Probably the most interesting feature is a 24-hour speeded-up video showing a representation of Greater London's daily passenger flow, while I also rather liked the abstract arrowed artwork based on Fitzrovia's one-way system. It's a fifteen minute sort of exhibition, so not one to drive in specially for, but you can always stop and stare at the amazing (and recently updated) 40-foot model of central London building projects to check what's planned. And don't forget to cast your votes in the wholly unscientific transport poll in the perspex containers on the wall, where it seems driverless cars split public opinion, whereas that road tunnelling idea is surprisingly popular. Runs until 24th February, alongside a small programme of get-involved events.

 Tuesday, February 02, 2016

I live in fear of card clash.

Sorry, I'm a bit late on this one. Bear with me.

It's now two years since TfL began scaring the bejesus out of us over card clash. Watch out for card clash, they screamed, beware of card clash, it could wreck your life!

This elevated level of alarm was somewhat unexpected, because it'd be six months before mere mortals could use their contactless cards to pay for travel on the Underground. Sure, they'd already been operational on the buses for over a year, where warnings of card clash had been made abundantly clear. But the relentless campaign on the tube in February 2014 was something new - you couldn't go five minutes in a ticket hall or on a platform without hearing recorded messages about the perils of double swiping.

Keep your Oyster card separate from your other contactless cards, they warned, else card clash might be the result. In those early days this might result in nothing worse than the gates not opening, and some mild tutting from the stream of commuters coming up behind. But as the trialling phase ended and general rollout ensued, it became increasingly vital "to only touch the card you intend to pay with on the reader to avoid paying with a card you did not intend to use". TfL's volley of card clash hype made journeys feel genuinely dangerous, so terrible might the consequences be.



But where is card clash now? Indeed can you even remember the last time you heard a recorded message specifically mentioning it? The danger should be greater now than ever, what with an increasing number of contactless cards in wallets and purses, and various other electronic means by which you might accidentally end up paying twice. Is TfL's silence because we've all learned to avoid the card clash demon? Was it possibly never a big issue in the first place? Or are they now going out of their way to promote the positives rather than the negatives?

TfL's message has most definitely changed, specifically to "contactless is great!" It's great for customers because they need never top up again, and because they'll never pay more than they would have done with Oyster. And it's great for TfL because it offloads all the effort of collecting fares to your bank, and saves TfL millions they can then invest elsewhere. Indeed if you look at any recent fare-related publicity you'll see that contactless is now always given maximum prominence, with Oyster as an also ran, because contactless is the future.

I don't have a contactless card.

Or rather I didn't, until the very end of last year when my bank finally sent me a new card with a contactless chip. It even arrived on the very day TfL snuffed out their last ticket office, which I thought was somewhat ironic.

I haven't rushed to use it, indeed I hung onto my old card until the very last day. I'm in no hurry to embrace new capability, not because I'm a Luddite but because I'm perfectly happy with what I know. Some of my friends are the complete opposite. They leapt on contactless as soon as it appeared, indeed they've embraced the technology to such an extent that they've been known to tweet their frustration when they discover a vendor who doesn't take Apple Pay, as if this inconvenience were some kind of financial crime. But I'm not someone who goes round town buying coffees, beers or pastries, nor a bag of groceries on the way home, so small plastic payments aren't a big thing for me.

And anyway, I have zero need for contactless payment on the tube. Contactless currently only works for Pay As You Go, whereas I have a Travelcard which works in a completely different way. Contactless can cope with weekly capping, but not yet monthly, and is of no use whatsoever for my annual one-off payment. It's known that TfL will be updating their technology before too long, perhaps replacing Oyster functionality with something that tots up travel and deducts a single payment at the end of the day. But for the time being those of us with Travelcards can simply ignore the lure of contactless, because we've already paid, and it'd likely charge us more.

Indeed it's pretty important that we Travelcard users don't use contactless. When I make a journey within my zones, it's not supposed to cost. When I venture outside my designated area, I pay a lesser extension fee. And even if I travel entirely outside the area I've paid for, my special Gold Card discount kicks in and I get one third off. I absolutely definitely do not want to pay for my tube or bus fare using contactless, which up until yesterday was fine, because I didn't have a card with the designated ability.

But at the end of 01/16 my old Chip and Pin expired, and suddenly I was kicked screaming into the modern world. My new card has a clever security feature whereby no contactless payment can be taken until it's been used at least once in a cash machine. But I needed fresh cash yesterday, and suddenly my contactless functionality is unlocked... imagine my fear and terror.

I now get to approach the ticket barrier carrying an additional card for payment. Suddenly I'm introducing financial risk into my daily travel where previously there was none. I don't usually swipe my wallet across the reader, I wave my Oyster card instead, but what if I suddenly get it wrong? What if the two cards suddenly ended up together in some freak mis-filing accident, and the wrong one beeped? Or what if I was getting onto a bus and the radio field picked up the contactless card I might have in a top pocket and accidentally charged that? And if it did, how would I know? I'm not scouring my bank balance for potential fare outlay, so who knows how out of control the drain on my spending could become.

I worry that a fear of card clash has been hardwired into me by TfL's lengthy awareness campaigns, hence I've become inordinately concerned that the dreaded double charging issue will happen to me. I know the rest of you are months ahead - you got all your Early Adopter Terror out of the way several months ago. Indeed you've probably long recognised that 'card clash' in fact never happens, and was merely a headline-grabbing scare story designed to tip us over into leaving our Oysters at home, shunting us over to the new way of doing things more quickly. I'll reach that state of mind eventually, I really will, but it may take a while.

So if you do spot a petrified geezer frozen with fear by the ticket gates, please have pity. I do have a contactless card, all of a sudden, I'm just not yet ready to use it.

 Monday, February 01, 2016

If it feels like the upgrade of Cycle Superhighway 2 has been going on for ages, that's because it has. The first roadworks kicked off twelve months ago, indeed this road sign by the Bow Roundabout is about to enter chronologically ambiguous territory.



And it's now six months since TfL sent me (and hundreds of other local residents) a letter outlining what the imminent restructure of Bow Road would involve. "The following changes are expected to apply between July 2015 and January 2016", they said. It's now February, and Bow Road still looks like a building site for most of its length, with plastic barriers and construction teams in abundance. The intended completion date is now March, so there should be plenty of time to transform the street into a model Cycle Superhighway. But blimey there's still a heck of a lot of work to be done, and until then the single lane traffic and slow-moving vehicles remain.

As a reality check, here's what TfL predicted would happen to Bow Road's six bus stops in their letter in July, along with what's actually happened.
Spoiler: All the predictions were wrong. Very wrong.

Bus stops (eastbound)
• Bus stop Y (Bow Road Station) will be temporarily suspended from early December for around six weeks
No, it hasn't closed yet. It's already February, but this is one of two bus stops yet to be affected by significant rebuilding work.
• Bus stop A (Bow Church Station) will be temporarily suspended from mid-September for around six weeks
Work eventually started not in September but at the beginning of January! It's still not finished, but the basics of the new bus stop bypass are all in place and, to their credit, the contractors got the bus stop reopened in only three weeks.
• Bus stop E (Bow Church) will be relocated 50m east and combined with bus stop G (Bow Church) permanently from late October
You already know all about this one. The transformation began in August with the closure of existing stop G, and concluded in mid-October with its reopening as bus stop M. But even though that was more than three months ago, the bus stop bypass still isn't open to cyclists. It looks finished, now the lamppost's been removed, but a sandbagged barrier prevents cyclists from taking the safer route behind the island. The next tiny bit of CS2 isn't officially upgraded yet, which I assume is the reason for this petty delay, but any cyclist would be in less peril on the not-quite perfect rear alignment than having to cycle past stopped buses in busy traffic.
• Bus stop M (Bow Flyover) will be closed permanently from from late December
No, it was actually closed permanently from early October. This closure ought to have made cycling onto the Bow Roundabout much safer, but alas not because the empty space is currently being used by bus drivers on route 205 to park up between journeys. Never underestimate how dangerous the construction phase of a segregated cycle lane can be for the cyclists who will later benefit from it.



Bus stops (westbound)
• Bus stops J, K and L (Bow Church) will be temporarily suspended from late October for around three weeks
Rebuilding work began in November and is now pretty much complete, with three new bus stops (and two shelters) strung out along a very long bus stop bypass. Impressively, by sequencing the construction work carefully, at no point did the bus stop have to close. Unimpressively the cycle lane still isn't open yet. A depressingly familiar tale.
• Bus stop B (Bow Church Station) will be temporarily suspended from early November for around three weeks
No, not yet. Three months on from the intended start date no major work has begun, and the bus stop has not been suspended.
• Bus stop Z (Bow Road station) will be temporarily suspended from late October for around three weeks
From late October? No, this bus stop closed only a couple of weeks back, three months behind schedule, and is currently very barriered and very dug up. As usual the only guidance to displaced bus passengers is a tiny sentence on a notice in a barely-legible location advising people to use the stop before or the stop after - the default advice and none too helpful. But then that's the kind of lax shoddiness we've come to expect during this 58-week upgrade. The end result had better be worth it.



For thirteen consecutive Februaries on diamond geezer I've kept myself busy by counting things. Ten different counts, to be precise, in a stats-tastic 28-day feature called The Count. You therefore won't be surprised to hear that I intend to do exactly the same again this year, indeed you'd no doubt be disappointed otherwise. I kicked off this annual exercise way back in 2003, so I now have over a dozen years of thrilling historical data to analyse. Expect a post or two of comparisons at the end of the month, if you're vaguely interested, and if you can bear the wait. Here's my selected list of ten countables for February 2016.

Count 1: Number of visits to this blog (Feb 2015 total: 58380) (↑13% on 2014)
Count 2: Number of comments on this blog (Feb 2015 total: 625) (↑31%)
Count 3: Number of words I wrote on this blog (Feb 2015 total: 30363) (↓6%)
Count 4: Number of hours each day I sleep (Feb 2015 total: 163) (↓1%)
Count 5: Number of nights I go out and am vaguely sociable (Feb 2015 total: 8) (↑33%)
Count 6: Number of bottles of Becks I drink (Feb 2015 total: 0) (↓100%)
Count 7: Number of cups of tea I drink (Feb 2015 total: 129) (-)
Count 8: Number of trains I travel on (Feb 2015 total: 124) (↑23%)
Count 9: Number of steps I walk (Feb 2015 total: 282391) (↑11%)
Count 10: The Mystery Count (Feb 2015 total: 0) (again)

I probably ought to tweak the Beck's-related sixth count, because it's proven increasingly over-specific over the years. Back in 2003 my bottled lager of choice was readily available, but now it's much more likely to be absent from the choices offered, thereby forcing me to drink something else. Good riddance, you might say, but focusing the annual statistics on Becks is making my alcohol consumption appear unnaturally low. I'm not intending to change Count Six, for reasons of tradition, but I will also be totting up the number of alternative bottles/pints of lager I get through. Last year that was only four, and all in one night in a Sam Smith's pub where the options were limited. My liver looks safe for some years yet.

The Count 2009Once again I'll be using an online website called Daytum to keep track of my counts. Daytum is a real-time data tracker which displays numbers in a pretty way, and which somehow hasn't gone offline since I started using it. For a while it'll be displaying last February's totals, but then I'll set everything back to zero and start reporting this year's counts from scratch. I then intend to update my counts on Daytum at least once a day until the 28th of the month, and then I'll come back and tell you how my February went. Who knows, the Mystery Count might even require enumeration this year, although I wouldn't get your hopes up. Stalk away.

» The Count 2016

 Sunday, January 31, 2016

When The View From The Shard opened to the public three years ago, I looked at the price and decided not to bother. £25 seemed a bit steep to ascend the tallest building in Western Europe, amazing though the view might be, and even that required booking ahead and risking it with the weather. The price has since gone up another pound, indeed it's now £30.95 if you turn up on the day, which is tourist-milking of the rankest order. But then the best bargain in London came along, so I've been up for rather less, and I'm going up again, and again, and again.

Last Monday at Stupid O'Clock in the morning, the ticket desks at the Shard opened early to dispense special 'Love London' tickets. These cost £20.16 and allow unlimited access to The View from The Shard for the rest of the year - that's less than the usual cost price and you can go up as many times as you like. Phenomenal value, I'm sure you'll agree. Only 2016 of these tickets were made available, hence long queues built up, and yet unbelievably the entire stock didn't quite sell out on day 1.

More to the point, "Due to popular demand, 500 additional Love London cards will be available for purchase on Sunday, 31 January 2016 from 10am." You need to live in London, you need to bring a utility bill and photo ID, and you can only buy on behalf of yourself. But I'd be willing to bet that if you turn up this morning (or even this afternoon) you'll easily bag one, particularly given how poor the weather forecast looks. And then you can go up the Shard in sun, in fog, in rain, in darkness, indeed at any time it's not totally booked out between now and New Year's Eve. I'm going at least once a month, at a cost of £1.68 a time, so maybe see you up there?




The View From the Shard

The Shard rises 1016 feet above what it likes to call London Bridge Quarter, but you probably think of as London Bridge station. Going up is a minor faff, thanks to the not entirely unexpected requirement that everyone proceeds through a full body security check. Then there's the lift, or rather two lifts, the first of which whisks you up to the 33rd floor at ear-popping speeds. From here you're ushered round the lobby to lift number two, which feels slightly slower, and this deposits you on (blimey) floor 68. The view starts one floor up, which means stairs, although there is another lift if accessibility is an issue. And finally you step out onto a broad lofty (indoor) viewing platform, wrapped around four sides of the central shaft, and all of London is laid out before you.

No, really, all of London. Normally when you go up a tall thing in London you can see a long way, perhaps to Wembley's arch, but not quite to the outskirts. Up here the horizon is a distant upland ring, in part the North Downs, in part the Chilterns, confirming that the capital is indeed hemmed in by green. I easily picked out the four tower blocks at Ponders End and the church at Harrow on the Hill (but not the O2 because it's hidden behind Canary Wharf). This is all in decent visibility, of course, you wouldn't want to be up in here overcast gloom... although with an annual ticket I will of course be up at some point to check.

Nobody is looking at the horizon. The Shard rises amid some of the most famous real estate in the world, much of which is straight down, so everyone's staring at that. Tower Bridge is close by to the east, St Paul's not far to the west, and the Gherkin/Walkie Talkie/Cheesegrater cluster immediately to the north. Tiny trains file into London Bridge station, immediately below, and journey onwards along model railway tracks. but the Thames is the main point of interest, snaking off in each direction, with a particularly impressive meander heading off towards Docklands - if you've ever wanted to fully understand central London's geography, up here is the place to do it.



And everybody is taking photos, of course they are. This means polite jostling for the best spaces by the window, perhaps waiting patiently until the couple or family between the struts have moved on. Some have cameras, others are attempting to zoom in on their phones, while others blunder in with oversize tablets. Grinning groups with selfie sticks are surprisingly thin on the ground, but most people want photos containing themselves or with other family members in, just to prove they were up here. The Shard even has its own official photographer, impeccably groomed, skilled in pressing his clients up against a chosen backdrop, point and click.

Except this isn't the ideal location for a photo. Every shot is through glass, which means annoying reflections in certain directions, and smeary blotches where it's rained. They send the windowcleaners down regularly, you'll have seen them on the news, so it's by no means a critical issue. But direct sunlight can be more of an issue, making staring into south London tricky at midday, and Westminster potentially dazzling in the afternoon. Overcast skies solve that issue but diminish the rooftops of London somewhat, so getting a perfect shot is unexpectedly hard. Getting a unique shot is impossible - remember thousands have already taken (and shared) exactly the same substandard picture as you.

And then there's upstairs. Three internal flights of steps lead up to the observation deck on floor 72, a full 244 metres above ground level, where a member of staff advises you to put your coat on. This level is open to the elements, but still mostly shielded by a rising spire of glass. In midwinter it's definitely nippy up here, and the wind whistles surprisingly loudly around the rooftop. But that's all good because it keeps the numbers slightly lower, so you're more likely to get a window to yourself and breathe in the amazingly open view. Reflections in the glass may be slightly more of an issue, but wow, won't you look at that?



There are of course little added extras to improve the experience. The highest bar in London, for starters, dishing out warming drinks and alcoholic beverages... for a lofty price. Champagne starts at £10 a glass, but plenty of bubbly was flowing for those who'd come up the Shard to celebrate a birthday, anniversary or special event. There are nibbles too, currently candy floss and popcorn to match the midwinter makeover that 'events' duo Bompas and Parr have given the upper level. Essentially it's a white carpet and some frosty crystalline decor, so nothing amazing, but it's being removed after tomorrow after which the viewing deck should then return to normal.

The upper deck is by no means the top of the building - technically the tip of the Shard is floor 95 - but you won't be passing through the maintenance access gate and climbing the increasingly narrow spire. Even so, you might be wondering how confident you'd be standing here behind glass, at a ridiculously high altitude above London. Fear not, my head for heights sometimes completely fails me but I was absolutely fine, which I suspect is thanks to the building's tapering profile. And rest assured that once you're up here they don't kick you out, you can hang around as long as you like to get value for money. I shall be going back to get phenomenal value for money throughout 2016.

» My 2016 View From The Shard photo album (there are 23 in the set so far)

 Saturday, January 30, 2016

 RANDOM BUS
 Route 31: Camden Town - White City
 Length of journey: 6 miles, 55 minutes [map]


The 31 is an outer inner London kind of bus, orbiting the centre of town at a safe distance. It runs from Camden round to Shepherd's Bush in a none-too thrilling arc, but that's what happens when you pick a route at random, and blimey it could have been a lot worse. Even the starting point is round the back of the exciting bit. All the southbound buses are hidden in Bayham Street, with the 31 stabled outside a row of humble almshouses.... except, this being Camden, each now sells for a million and a half. Our driver-to-be has popped out of his cab for a fag, to enjoy some proper solitary time, until the next 31 parks up behind and he hops onto the front for a chat. Don't worry, it turns out he was only vaping, so the next-but-one ride to White City won't smell of smoke.

We are the next bus to White City. Our first target is Camden High Street, not yet the part where the tourists throng, but the more ordinary part where local people actually shop. Our first stop is outside what used to be The Black Cap, north London's premier drag bar, which suddenly closed last April and now stands forlorn and boarded up after a proposed restaurant landgrab fell through. Whatever used to trade two doors down is currently being reborn as 'luxury flats', and LGBT campaigners fervently hope they can avoid a similarly tedious fate. Past the tube station the road is awash with jaywalking tourists, milling between boutiques selling bags and boutiques selling boots, because that's what they come to Camden to do. Various markets bear off to either side, replete with innumerable micro-retail opportunities, although Camden Lock Village Market beside the canal has been razed and awaits less interesting redevelopment as Hawley Wharf.

There have been no stops for a while - no bus dares pick up between the tube station and the Stables - so a throng boards in the upper reaches of Chalk Farm Road. No visiting Euro-teen would dream of going where we're heading, diverting from the characterful main drag to service relentlessly residential streets in outer Camden. Primrose Hill may be only the other side of the Euston mainline, but Adelaide Road's a rather less cliquey world. The road climbs inexorably between two of the borough's postwar estates, one anchored by four tall (but well-spaced) tower blocks, each named after a prettier spot in East Berks. Beyond Taplow comes Swiss Cottage, first the wonderfully modernist library with its wheeled concrete fins, then a sudden long distance view from the corner of the gyratory. We'll be passing that far-flung Kilburn spire later.

The 31 merely toys with the Finchley Road, its orbital mission requiring a prompt turn-off past the Post Office. Fairfax Road is not ideally suited to double deckers, and is easily blocked by, for example, a smart car parked perpendicular to the kerb and an Iceland delivery van. We have to wait while four car drivers attempting to come the other way slowly deduce that yes, they are going to have to reverse, and far enough back to allow us us pass. Ahead, eventually, is South Hampstead, one of those minor Overground stations that hides away from public consciousness, while the shops at the tip of Belsize Road appear to specialise in pizza and interior design. Residents on the right hand side of the street might well need tile and flooring specialists on a regular basis, while the flats along the opposite side resemble a string of telephone exchanges joined together and are more likely occupied by the fast food clientèle.

As we pause behind a Deliveroo driver, another 31 sneaks up behind and overtakes, accelerating to get through the set of turning-red lights ahead of us. If you thought Abbey Road was all Beatles-glam you've not been this far up, where grim tower blocks called Snowman House and Casterbridge looms down, about as far from Thomas Hardy's idyll as it's possible to imagine. Our last dalliance with the mainline railway is on the approach to Kilburn, where the High Road is in transition from old to new. Our enforced halt at a yellow box junction allows perusal of The Old Bell, still characterful and appealing, and an adjacent block replaced by a too-typical boxy Tesco/Gym/Hotel combo. The other 31 gains enough of a head start to stay well ahead of us, mopping up passengers departing Kilburn Park station and then disappearing out of sight.

It's taken two paragraphs to reach that spire we glimpsed earlier, which belongs to St Augustine's, a prime Grade I example of Victorian Gothic. This brings us to Kilburn Park Road, the dividing line between Westminster and Brent, where the former gets proper 19C terraces and the latter gets "an exceptional collection of private apartments and duplexes for sale". There are bursts of full respectability as we nudge the edge of Maida Hill, even a palpable sense of community around the corner shop cluster on Shirland Road, though we also get to suffer the less affluent end of Elgin Avenue past a boarded-up pub before the Harrow Road. Apologies, this is turning into a diatribe about whether the houses we pass look nice or not, but I'm afraid the wildly varied property portfolio along the 31 very much encourages this approach.

And the contrast only increases. Crossing the Grand Union brings us to the Westway viaduct, and several of the estates that Westminster council never boast about. On the Brunel Estate we stop outside a shop window filled almost entirely by kitchen towels and toilet rolls from a variety of discount brands. A mere couple of turns later the retail offering has shot vastly upmarket, featuring bubble tea and bistros, reflecting an invisible fault line crossing into Notting Hill. Chepstow Road is lined with glorious white portico-ed terraces, Pembridge Villas doubly so, as we pass through parts of town anyone lower than a banker would find impossible to acquire. The proper prime properties are off down adjacent avenues, without a stream of buses and other traffic flowing past, and perhaps a little further from the souvenir shops at the foot of Portobello Road, where a Camden Town vibe briefly returns.

Notting Hill Gate, where the 31 rejoins the mainstream, is considerably less quirky. It's also where the clamour of the disembodied iBus voice becomes somewhat insistent, warning that Holland Park station is closed and so this really would be a much better place to alight to catch the tube. It's now ten years since Emma Hignett's dulcet tones were first introduced - where would we be without her? Holland Park Avenue is probably the peak of the 31's residential aspirations, with elegant ascending terraces and crescents overlooking private gardens, and a bijou shopping parade to match. And it's here that we finally catch up with the 31 that overtook us earlier, slowed down by having to pick up miles of passengers it reached first. With the finishing line in sight, we win.

Ah, Shepherd's Bush, where the influence of a certain shopping centre is keenly felt. Most of those on board alight at the entrance to Westfield, eschewing the delights of the traders round the Green, leaving just three of us to travel the final leg. This takes us up the delivery road between the megamall and the West Cross Route, before dropping us off... oh hang on. Since I was last here the direct route to White City Bus Station has been closed and all the businesses to the north of the feeder road demolished, as Westfield prepares to massively expand. A huge John Lewis will anchor the new development, which'll feature offices, over 1000 apartments and 'public realm', and add at least another minute onto every bus journey. And best not mention what they're doing to Television Centre across the road, best simply alight at the underused bus station with another route ticked off.



» route 31 - route map
» route 31 - timetable
» route 31 - live bus map
» route 31 - route history
» route 31 - The Ladies Who Bus

 Friday, January 29, 2016

Evening Standard to launch new East London edition

London's top evening newspaper is to publish a second daily edition for the eastern side of the capital. The new 'E Standard' will be targeted at less affluent East Londoners, and launches next Monday.

The E Standard will be easily distinguishable by a bold bright red stripe across the top of the front cover. Look out for the official distributors in their red caps outside Stratford and Canning Town stations, as well as selected inner London tube entrances and rail termini from 1st February.

"We've been wanting to do this for a long time," said Evening Standard Commissioning Editor Penny Wright-George. "London is increasingly a city of two halves, so it's only right that we respect that choice with a fresh feed of more relevant journalism."

"We know our West London readers enjoy the lively mix of business news, high society chatter and basement extension updates we bring them every day. Our East London readers aren't quite the same breed, so we'll be doing everything we can to help them aspire to a better lifestyle, whilst maintaining a laser focus on the more mundane aspects of East End life."

"When there's a murder, we pledge to be the first to publish a shot of the location screengrabbed from Google Streetview. If a press release arrives from a dynamic new market stall or backstreet pop-up, we promise to republish it in full. We'll even try and include the occasional news story about Romford and Hornchurch, because it's been years."

The new E Standard will feature graphic details of petty violence and knife crime wherever it may strike, as well as inspiring tales from estates several miles from the nearest proper coffee shop. There'll be gossip from the streets in a new 'Bus Shelter' diary page, and the sports pages will be wall-to-wall West Ham, with the occasional paragraph of Leyton Orient team news when there is any.

Wednesday's property supplement will continue, in somewhat thinner form, focusing on key projects such as shared ownership flats and council housing swaps. Expect Monday's fashion pullout to feature hair straightening tips rather than catwalk style, while Friday's leisure section will review a different fried chicken shop every week.

For the purposes of practicality, and because advertisers concur, Walthamstow and Woolwich are to be included with the Evening Standard's new eastern zone. The special edition may also be shipped to Lewisham and Abbey Wood, assuming people living in these areas actually read newspapers. By contrast Canary Wharf remains a bastion of financial privilege in a sea of poverty, so the red-top will never be distributed here.

Readers across the rest of London should be reassured that the Eastern edition will not be forced on them if they don't want it. Only the pure original Evening Standard will be distributed to commuters at Waterloo and Paddington, and residents of Kensington and Chelsea need never dirty their hands. But both versions will be on offer at locations from Midtown through to Aldgate - grab the red-top if you're heading east, and avoid at all costs otherwise.

"We're well aware that nothing much of any importance happens in East London," admits Wright-George, "so we'll be padding out the E Standard with several 'how the other half lives' features from the sister paper. Our journalists will also continue to spot popular clickbait on Twitter and work it up into a 100-word story, because we know how easy that is."

"But above all, we want our readers to feel a part of the London they live in. No longer will we waste time telling East Londoners about £10m mansions, theatre luvvies and superfood start-ups, while West Londoners need never hear about Sadiq Khan ever again, whoever he was."

The E Standard, from Monday, in your dreams.

 Thursday, January 28, 2016

If one London bus fare costs £1.50
bus

and two London bus fares cost £3
busbus

and three London bus fares cost £4.50
busbusbus

then how much do four London bus fares cost?
busbusbusbus

Wrong, it's £4.50.

And that's because there exists a daily price cap on bus fares. The daily cap is currently set at £4.50, which means if you only travel on buses (or trams), you never pay more.
busbusbusbus

At this year's prices, £4.50 is precisely the fare for three bus journeys, which effectively means your fourth bus journey is free. And so is your fifth, and your sixth, and your seventh, and so on. In effect your Oyster or contactless card is a bus pass allowing free bus travel after the third bus.
busbusbusbusbusbusbusbusbusbus

I'm trying to work out why I'd never realised this before. I think it's because I have a Travelcard, so all my bus journeys come free, so I've never needed to know. The cap's been stated quite clearly in the information associated with the annual fare increase, ever since it was first introduced several years ago. But without the effects making themselves known on my card balance, I've never noticed it was a thing.

TfL don't seem particularly keen to crow about it, which is odd, because it's clearly brilliant. As far as I can tell it doesn't even have a special name, a brand to band about in publicity and get the public's attention, which might help spread the word. It's not even mentioned on the Bus & Tram fares page on the TfL website, not unless you think to open up the table halfway down, and there it is, Daily cap, £4.50.

I've seen posters around London pointing out that a single bus fare is only £1.50, and also that any off-peak tube journey outside zone 1 is only £1.50. But of the daily bus cap, not a word. "Your fourth bus journey is free!" "We only charge for your first three bus journeys!" "Travel by bus and pay no more than £4.50 a day!" How many times might you have caught an extra bus if you'd realised it wouldn't cost a thing? I don't believe this simple travel bargain is widely known. I may be wrong.

There are of course complications.
busbusbustube

If you ride three buses and then a tube, on Pay As You Go, then the tube does not come free. A completely separate cap kicks in as soon as you travel on something that isn't a bus or a tram, and that's much higher. How much higher depends on what time of day it is, and which zones you travel in.

If your tube journey stays inside zones 1 and 2, then this combination
busbusbustube
costs £6.50 off-peak. It ought to cost £6.90 (three £1.50 bus fares plus £2.40 on the tube). But the Z1-2 daily cap kicks in at £6.50, so £6.50 is all you pay, a saving of 40p.

And once the daily cap's kicked in, so long as you stay within zones 1 and 2 you can ride as much as you like for nothing. That's
busbusbustubetubetubetubetubetubetube

Or
tubetubetubetubetubetubetubetubetubetube

Or even
tubetubetubetubebustubeDLRbusovertube
all for £6.50.

If your tube journeys are at peak times between zones 1 and 6 there's a higher cap, but it kicks in even quicker.
tubetubetubetubetubetubetubetubetubetube

But if your tube journeys lie entirely inside zones 5 and 6, then things are rather different.
tubetubetubetubetubetubetubetubetubetube
Tube fares within zones 5 and 6 cost only £1.70 at peak times, but the daily cap for journeys including zone 6 is a massive £11.80, so it takes seven trips before you hit the cap.

Off-peak in zones 5 and 6 it's even worse.
tubetubetubetubetubetubetubetubetubetube
Any two-zone tube journey outside zone 1 costs just £1.50 off-peak, so here it takes eight trips before you hit the cap. Back in zones 1 and 2, it took only three.

Doing a lot of travelling around the outer zones is expensive because the daily cap is high - you're charged as if you'd been to zone 1. But doing a lot of travel around the inner zones is relatively inexpensive because the daily cap is low - you're not charged as if you'd been to zone 6. TfL's capping policy advantages those who live in inner London and stay there, and disadvantages those who live in outer London and stay there. How fair, or otherwise, is that?

Of perhaps more long-term importance, as we've seen, TfL's capping policy is bloody complicated. Travellers using Pay As You Go now generally travel around town without seeing how much each part of their journey costs, instead simply trusting TfL to tot it all up later. We're increasingly moving towards a fare system so complex that it's become a magic black box, deducting one single payment from your account at the end of the day, without you ever needing to know how that total was calculated.

We may not understand how much
08.26 Z4→1
tube
09.23
bus
10.05 Z2→3
tube
13.41 Z3→8
rail
16.18 Z8→4
tube
costs, but there's a computer that does, and all we have to do is let the money flow away.

 Wednesday, January 27, 2016

KENSINGTON PALACE
Location: Kensington Gardens W8 4PX [map]
Open: 10am-6pm (closes 5pm in winter)
Admission: £15.00 (plus optional donation)
5-word summary: three centuries of royal style
Website: hrp.org.uk/kensington-palace
Time to set aside: a couple of hours



Buckingham Palace only opens to the public for a couple of months each summer, but another royal residence in central London is open all year round. You don't get to see Prince Harry's bachelor pad, nor the suite of rooms where Prince William's family have the runaround. But you are allowed inside the other half of Kensington Palace, where a succession of monarchs lived and entertained, and currently <Bargain Klaxon> at half price. One wing of the tour is temporarily sealed off for an exhibition upgrade, but the rest is yours for £7.50, so long as you book online and turn up by Wednesday 10th February. There's a similar offer on at Hampton Court, and that's also well worth a cut-price winter visit. But a bargain at KP doesn't come round very often, in case you've never been. I'd never been.

If you can't place Kensington Palace it's up the far western side of what you might think of as Hyde Park, but is actually Kensington Gardens. These used to be the grounds of the house when it was simply a mansion in the countryside, which'd be the late 17th century, and has since been considerably built up and extended by royal prerogative. The Round Pond was added to look elegantly ornamental from one particular set of windows, and the Serpentine also owes its existence to a regal resident. A fine set of formal gardens faces the park, fully accessible by the public, although much of this consists of very recent additions to add some landscaping oomph. One intriguing feature is The Wiggly Walk, a zig-zag pathway descending through hornbeam hedging, at present 100% dead leaves, but considerably more attractive during any other season.

Wills and Harry (and their armed bodyguards) hold sway at the front of Kensington Palace, so the public entrance is round the back, beyond the golden gates, beneath a fresh Diamond Jubilee porch. The first lobby is open to anyone, because it leads to the shop and cafe, and because the more people stop by for a tea towel and a slice of cake the better. The ticket office is off to the left, your purchase permitting access through to the foot of the Stone Stair and the main vestibule, from which all routes around the palace begin. There are four of these, each historically themed, the intention being to tell the story of four very different eras at the house, each in a rather different way. Kensington Palace isn't your normal heritage trudge, it was revamped in 2012 in a style described as 'tradition with a twist'. Expect an emphasis on fashion and a more theatrical vibe, with a sense of storytelling throughout. Rest assured that's not as ghastly as it sounds.



The Queen's State Apartments
I thought I'd follow the four routes in chronological order, which meant heading to the first floor via a long corridor. The redesigners have done a smart job decorating the walls with tapestry-like motifs, and made an intriguing feature of a long bench by using cushions to create a portrait timeline. The far stairs feature a similarly charming stitched family tree, including the King and Queen whose apartments are entered next. They were William and Mary, who sailed in from Holland to cut off the Catholic line, but found Whitehall's damp riverside atmosphere not to their tastes. They made the move to Kensington in 1689 and invited Sir Christopher Wren to do up the house in a non-ostentatious Dutch style. I was fortunate to find the long gallery occupied by one of the Palace's Explainers, who give talks in different parts at different times of day. He brought the place to life, with more than a whistlestop tour through history, whereas I'd have learned rather less from the information panels dotted throughout the rooms that follow. These stick to the basics of Mary's story, her tenure at the Palace cut short after five happy years by an unfortunate bout of smallpox. Her bedroom is a dark space with a poignant four-poster, and the last of the chain of six rooms here, which are perhaps a little underwhelming.



The King's State Apartments
By contrast, wow, the Georges didn't hold back. George I wanted to make an impact on arrival from Hanover, and had Kensington Palace's state rooms suitably upgraded. The first indication of this is the grand staircase, a showy ascent whose walls are painted with scenes featuring 45 of the palace's courtiers. The next two rooms acted as social filters, screening out the uncourtly, and are bedecked with art from the Royal Collection (yes, that's Cupid and Psyche by Van Dyck). But it's the Cupola Room that takes the breath away, with its high octagonal domed ceiling and gold statues in marble recesses. Queen Victoria was christened here... but we'll come back to her. The King's Drawing Room was the hub of daily activity, often card-game-related, and has the window from which the Round Pond was meant to be viewed. In Queen Caroline's Closet we learn of the love George II's wife had for the place, and her penchant for surrounding herself with the arts and science intelligentsia of the day. On the wall of the King's Gallery is a large gilded wind-dial showing a map of the seas of Northern Europe, then crucial to trade. And throughout the apartments the rooms are dotted with costumes of the day, or rather perfectly-constructed paper reproductions, very much in keeping with the reimagination of the visitor experience. This circuit was the most must-see of my visit, and all the better to enjoy it in January splendour with barely another visitor present.



Victoria Revealed
Princess Alexandrina Victoria was born at Kensington Palace in the last year of her grandfather George III's reign. She was still living here a month after her 18th birthday, when her uncle William IV died and the news came that she was now Queen. The first room you enter on this part of the tour is where the privy council met that morning to confirm the accession, kicking off a tale of Victoria's life told in her own words. Quotations from her diary are transcribed onto carpets, walls and cabinets, in a handwritten font which those with a poor command of English must find hard to read. This allows for a more emotional history than usual, the largest room given over to her passion for Prince Albert ("such beautiful blue eyes, an exquisite nose, and such a pretty mouth with delicate moustachios and slight but very slight whiskers"). The decoration in this part of the palace is nothing special so it makes sense to concentrate on words and the occasional object, from childhood toys to the success of the Great Exhibition. The personal focus adds to our empathy at Albert's death, and the queen's subsequent long period of mourning, with a series of rooms black in both tone and contents. It's then somewhat jolting to see the celebrations of her Diamond Jubilee on flickering film, as a nod to the modern era her passing presaged.

Fashion Rules
This is the section you won't get to see, the reason your ticket is half price. Sponsored by Estee Lauder, it features the dresses of three modern royal clotheshorses - the Queen, her sister Margaret and former resident Princess Diana. On February 11th these six rooms reopen as Fashion Rules: Restyled, which presumably means different dresses, so I'm not too sorry at missing out. I'd say there's been a definite attempt to target Kensington Palace at a female audience, and to attract tourists whose idea of a grand day out is shopping in Bond Street. Whether the experience is worth a full whack ticket I'd question, but if you visit during the next fortnight before the price doubles, this historic hideaway is well worth uncovering. [ten photos]

 Tuesday, January 26, 2016

In just 100 days time, London goes to the polls to decide who runs City Hall after Boris. Once the master of inactivity has departed, who are we going to get instead and what do they stand for? The four main parties have already chosen their candidates, so I've been digging around their campaign websites (and other media) to see what they've been saying on a variety of issues. Transport, air pollution, housing, jobs and crime are all included, as you'd expect, with key pledges and points of view coerced into tabular form. I've been selective, but hopefully balanced, and used direct quotes where possible. If a box is empty that might be because the candidate's website is thin on the subject, or I've missed something, or they have yet to announce their policy. Did I mention there are still 100 days to go?


Sadiq Khan
Labour
Zac Goldsmith
Conservative
Caroline Pidgeon
Liberal Democrat
Sian Berry
Green
sadiq.londonbackzac2016.comcarolinepidgeon.orgsianberry.london
Freeze all TfL fares at 2016 prices for four years.I'll improve the capacity and reliability of London's transport system.Half price fares on Underground, Overground and TFL Rail Services for people travelling by 7.30am.Reduce the number of fare zones to four from next year, and bring in a completely flat fare structure by 2025.
A first-year cut and then a freeze in bus fares, and new ‘Hopper’ bus ticket – valid for any number of journeys in a full hour.The rise of electric cars means that bus lanes will eventually become an unnecessary part of London's transport system.The one-hour London bus ticket has been a prominent proposal of the capital’s Liberal Democrats for at least six years.We’ll also introduce a new ‘ONE Ticket’ that will let you change between any mode of transport on the way to your destination.
If I’m Mayor, the Freedom Pass staysProtect the Freedom Pass  
Government announcement on rail services is a small step in the right direction, but commuters need action now.Bring suburban rail services under the Mayor’s control to increase and improve the service.Pidgeon welcomes TfL takeover of suburban trains. 
Secure a funding deal for Crossrail 2 and review the route to ensure that it helps deliver jobs, regeneration, social inclusion and housing.Ensure the Night Tube goes ahead, start Crossrail 2, and grow the rail network.  
"Boris Johnson was wrong to commit £30 million of London taxpayers’ money to the Garden Bridge. But thanks to my new deal, it looks like Londoners will get the best of both worlds.""I accept that it's costly, but in the context of the TfL budget, in the context of the vast amounts of TfL waste, I think this is a project we can justify.""There is something iffy about the whole thing. If I became mayor I would withdraw funding from it and be looking very carefully at the whole project.""It would not get a penny from the transport budget - as a grant or a loan - if I were Mayor. I favour more foot and cycle crossings in the areas where they are desperately needed, such as Rotherhithe and North Greenwich."
» Champion new measures to encourage cycling and walking, while also making them safer.
» More cycle storage in commercial and residential areas, and more emphasis on making junctions and key routes safer for cyclists and pedestrians.
Encourage safer cyclingIt is simply shameful that year after year TfL have repeatedly spent just a fraction of their allocated budget on vital improvements to junctions and investing in cycling infrastructure.» Make space on the roads for safe cycling, walking, play and all kinds of things that aren’t cars.
» Aim to spend 10 per cent of TfL's capital budget on cycling and walking infrastructure.
Create the longest pedestrianised shopping area in Europe by pedestrianizing Oxford Street.Oxford Street is an air quality disaster at the moment and I think it’s very antisocial for people who work and use Oxford Street to have a great train of buses there.We are calling for Oxford Street to be fully pedestrianised by 2020.As for Oxford Street, Berry wants to change it "radically" by introducing a shuttle tram.
Launch a feasibility study for the reduction of energy consumption on the public transport network.» We won't get cleaner air unless London stops stalling on electric cars - which have zero exhaust emissions.
» Create an integrated electric charging network for London.
» Ambitious plans for a 'Boris Bike' equivalent for electric cars.
A big switch towards zero emission electric buses and taxis, not diesel hybrids, is now vital in London.We will clean London’s air and make this a healthy city for children to grow up in and communities to play in, and we want travel in London to be a joy, not a burden.
Consult on expanding the proposed Ultra Low Emissions Zone (ULEZ) to all of Zones 1 and 2, and out along primary commuter routes.Tackle air pollution with tougher rules on HGVs.» Introduce a special charge for the most polluting diesel vehicles coming into central London to help improve our City's air quality.
» Bring forward the start date of the Ultra Low Emission Zone.
» Introduce a peak-time ban on HGVs in central London.
A replacement to the creaking Congestion Charge, covering all of London not just a small central zone, should start consultation as soon as the next mayor takes over, with a set of fair new charges based on three principles: how far you drive, how polluting your vehicle is, and the time of day.
Sadiq will campaign against the proposed third runway, and in favour of a second runway at GatwickZac has campaigned continuously to oppose a 3rd runway at Heathrow airport, which would create huge noise and air pollution particularly for local residents.We need a better run Heathrow, not a bigger Heathrow.» No to all new runways in London – at Gatwick not just Heathrow.
» Transform London City Airport into a new quarter for homes and businesses.
» Sadiq will preserve our green spaces and aim to plant two million trees by 2020.
» I want London eventually to be a zero-carbon city.
» Protect the green belt from development.
» Create more green spaces and cleaning up local parks so they are safe to visit and enjoy.
  
» Support housing associations in their plans to ensure a minimum of 80,000 new homes a year.
» 50 per cent affordable housing target for new developments.
» Establish a London-wide not-for-profit lettings agency to promote longer-term, stable tenancies.
» A new form of affordable housing, with rent based on a third of average local income, not market rates.
» If elected Mayor, I'll start fixing London's housing crisis.
» Double home building to 50,000 a year by 2020 and ensuring development is in keeping with the local area.
» Ensuring a significant proportion of all new homes are only for rent and not for sale.
» Retain the Olympic Precept at £20 a year and convert it into a Housing Precept. This "Olympic Housing" effort will enable us to access £2 billion of funds. We can build 50,000 new council homes and 150,000 homes for private rent and sale.
» The government’s plan to extend the right to buy to housing association tenants will be an incredibly expensive policy as well as undermining the viability of the whole housing association sector.
» I pledge not to demolish estates in London if I’m elected. It’s almost always much better to improve than to knock down communities.
» The GLA’s closed fire and police stations (currently under-occupied by property guardians) to be offered for emergency accommodation for refugees while we find permanent homes through councils.
As Mayor, I'll crack down on overseas investors buying up new homes before Londoners.Giving Londoners the first chance to buy new homes built in London - any homes built on mayoral land will only be sold to Londoners.  
» Only companies paying the London Living Wage will be awarded public sector contracts.
» Protect 'incubator' and start-up spaces from the threat of redevelopment.
» I'll set up a new Business Advisory Board - half the board will be women business leaders.
Zac Goldsmith is backing vital action to protect London commuters from politically-motivated strikes by trade unions. » By tackling wage inequality and investing in new jobs, we will transform working life in London to make it rewarding, creative, and deliver a decent wage for all.
» The government’s failure to protect business space in London from conversion to residential property is putting increasing pressure on supply of affordable office spaces.
» A zero-tolerance approach to hate crimes.
» Recruit more police from BAME communities and drive down unnecessary use of stop and search.
» Tougher community payback for those caught with knives.
» Protect neighbourhood police teams and keeping them on the street.
» Tackle the root causes of crime in local communities.
» Put more police on public transport at night.
I urge the Mayor not to proceed with the scrapping of all 1000 Police Community support officers.We want Londoners to be secure in their homes. To feel that they are part of a community that they can enjoy, shape, and design, and afford to live in.
We have the best arts & culture in the world, but it’s out of reach for too many Londoners.All paid for without increasing Mayoral council tax.I call on English Heritage to work with Greenwich Council to ensure that a blue plaque is erected near to Emily Davison’s birthplace in Blackheath.Join me to give London back to Londoners.
@SadiqKhan@ZacGoldsmith@CarolinePidgeon@sianberry


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